Arduino – Weather Station with BMP180

Following on from this post, I have added a second sensor and developed the code further.

Here is the BMP180 (link to data sheet hosted with Adafruit), its a bosch sensor which will measure pressure and temperature – I bought from China via ebay – x2 sensors cost $2.96 delivered.

I outputted both the DHT22 and the BMP180 temperatures in the serial monitor to check to see how close they were – not too far out.

The board now looks like this:

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Arduino – Simple weather station

I recently picked up a clone Arduino Uno from China via ebay along with some sensors and other bits and pieces to learn a bit about Arduino – First project a simple weather station.

For wiring instructions and arduino Libraries I used Adafruit, DHT22 here and 16×2 LCD here.

Then cobbling together some code from here which I made a few changes to:

  • Changed Fahrenheit to Celsius
  • Added a degree’s Celsius character
  • Changed the LCD and DHT22 Pins
  • Changed the error code to “looking”
  • Added a five second delay as the humidity reading was flickering on the display
  • Added the F as described in the comments – see bottom of post

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Second Bed Build

Following on from the last bed build (see part 1, part 2), I made a second one. This time a full UK double size rather than a UK small double. As it was a full double I again added the centre 2×4″ and also a centre leg for extra strength.Frame made in the same way as before, 4×1″ for the legs, 2×4″ for the frame and 1×4″ for the slats. Prior to assembly, I cut everything to size, sanded it and varnished with water based polyurethane (dries much faster than oil based).

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Installing A Monitor Mount

I had some spare IT kit and I thought it would be useful have a PC and monitor in the workshop.

I wanted to mount the monitor on the wall out the way, so I purchased the cheapest swivel monitor mount off ebay for about £7.

I was given an old pc minus a hard drive so I found one in the stores and then installed Xubuntu 14.04LTS which was all easy enough, added a £3 ebay usb wi-fi stick and a keyboard and mouse I had kicking about.

To mount it I decided to fix the bracket to a piece of 2×4″ then the 2×4″ to the wall, this will provide four fixings in the wall rather than two so should be more secure.

To begin, I took a piece of scrap 2×4, and bevelled the ends for aesthetics and marked where I wanted the 2×4″ to be fixed to the wall.

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D Link DIR615 Router running DD-WRT

Router D Link 615 – Hardware version D4 + DD-WRT

I wanted to find a router capable of running DD-WRT, this new firmware provides enhanced functionality over the standard stock firmware. Some Buffalo routers come with DD-WRT pre-installed but I struggled to find any nearby. So the search was on, I first looked for new routers and found a few from TP Link, but having had problems with some homeplugs (powerline adapters) I decided to keep looking and happened to find that D-Link DIR 615 cable routers would great with DD-WRT. These routers also happened to have been sent out by one of the big UK internet service providers meaning there are plenty on e-bay, still boxed and never used. So just under £9 later (inc P+P) I had a D-Link 615 (revision: D4) cable router.

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Wooden speaker brackets from 2×4″ and 2×3″

I wanted to make some speaker brackets for the new (old) mission speakers I acquired for the workshop and having some scrap 2×4″, 2×3″ and MDF, I made up these.

I was inspired by this design from instructables LINK. I choose to amend the design by choosing to use lots of wood glue(!) and mitred some of the edges for aesthetics.

I cut the pieces to size, sanded and fixed with wood screws and lots of wood glue. These will easily support the speakers and I think look good. By cutting the 2×3″ this way it will ensure that there is plenty of room to fix the brackets to the wall either side of the brace. I used two fixings at the top and one fixing at the bottom. This seems to be holding them very securely.

Parts cut

Job done.

Workmate table top

Workmate table top

I wanted to build a worktop to be clamped into a workmate or folding workbench to provide a larger working area and as I had some spare 18mm MDF, 2×2″ and 2×3″ CLS I used them. MDF can and does warp so I framed the edges with the 2×3″ which I glued and clamped and then drove a few screws to hold in place. This will provide extra strength and also provide a surface to clamp against.

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Building a bookcase

Building  a bookcase from pine as a present, here is the finished result:

After looking online for a while I found these plans which looked easy to build and would disassemble for moving.

So after settling on the plans I gathered up the following:

  • 1×9″ PSE Pine x4@ 1.8m
  • 1×4″ PSE Pine x6 @ 900mm
  • M8 300mm Threaded rod
  • M8 Lock Nuts
  • M8 Penny Washers
  • Polyurethane Varnish (oil based)

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Free To Air Satellite Install

After seeing a review for a skybox f5 on the AVforums link, I decided I wanted some extra TV channels and more HD channels and a so following some purchases I had everything I needed (I also wanted a project):

  • Zone 2 sat dish with quad LNB £23.99 (I decided to get a larger zone 2 satellite dish as I had plans to add an additional 1 or 2 LNBs to the setup to receive more channels at a later date.)

The dish arrived with a Quad LNB

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Raspberry PI

I picked up a raspberry pi to experiment with, here is the board in all its glory:

Its a tiny credit card sized linux computer, find out more info here. Its the Model B version with networking and with a CPU running stock at 700mhz.

I also picked up a case from Mod my pi and a 16gb Intergral class 10 SD card. Its powered by a micro usb PSU providing at least 700mA so I found an old blackberry charger that seems to be working fine. Once the HDMI cable and a logitech wireless keyboard and mouse I was ready to started playing. I downloaded the new operating system software from the Raspberry Pi website NOOBs (new out of box software) which includes a few different OS’s to choose from. I stuck with Raspian first which installed reasonably quickly and booted fine. Then I overclocked the pi to 800mhz (a “modest” overclock) by amending the config file to provide a bit of extra speed – this will not void the warranty and is super quick.

I am hoping to use it as a small energy efficient file server a bit like this.

Building Airing Cupboard Shelves

I made some shelves for the airing cupboard. Constructed from 2×1″ PSE. Very simple construction just 2×1″, wood glue, screws and Danish Oil.

Shelves laid out prior to fixing some shorter to accommodate plumbing.

Once the 2 shelves were complete, I sanded and finished with Danish oil to protect the wood and to improve finish.

Then I moved onto the supports, I have kept the shelves and supports separate so if access is needed for maintenance the shelves can be quickly and easily be removed.

I mitred the corners on the upright supports to improve the aesthetics. Scrap wood used when cutting to prevent tear out and keen a good edge.

Mitres fitted, the shelves slot onto the uprights fixed with one screw each to hold them in place and to make it easier to remove if needed for maintenance.

Final Result complete

Tumble dryer stand

I ordered a tumble dryer and wanted to make a stand with castors to make moving it easy as its going to be located in my workshop. I also wanted to add a worktop to protect the machine and provide somewhere to put stuff when working. So I gathered up the following materials:

  • x1 full sheet of 18mm MDF (only half was needed)
  • 2×3” CLS timber
  • Wood glue
  • Drywall screws (65mm and 42mm)
  • Danish Oil (j cloth/sponge and gloves to apply)
  • x4 75mm braked castors
  • m8 washers

Then after a few minutes on sketchup I produced this:

I set the top slightly back that the bottom to ensure access to the control panel on the machine was not obstructed.

To construct, first I got the MDF cut to the nearest mm at the local DIY centre taking the measurements from sketchup,  its quicker than trying to cut sheet materials well with a circular saw and more importantly I don’t have any decent dust extraction (MDF dust is not nice!).

Once I had the MDF panels cut I started with the base, I cut the 2×3” to size, added plenty of glue, clamped and used drywall screws to fix through the MDF into the 2×3”.

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